Our informant tells of a woman in the north who thus embroidered the christening gown of her youngster by stealth in the kitchen, fearing to be caught by her visitors—cookery had in these days precedence over embroidery. Ladies also, a century and a half in the past, made it their occupation, because the motto of our chapter, from the drama of Holberg, will present. We have already spoken of Greece as the cradle of embroidery, and in those islands which escaped the domination of the Turks, law firm citizenship by investment the art nonetheless lingered on. For the wives of functionaries and suchlike, in whom it was unbecoming to waste on such employment time that ought to be dedicated to household issues. As early as 1393, in a listing of the Dukes of Burgundy, we find noted “un petit pourpoint de satin noir, et est la gorgerette de maille d’argent de Chippre”—a collar of silver community. Cyprus, to which in after times Venice gave a queen, was renowned for its gold, its stuffs, and its needlework. This work was, however, appeared upon as infra dig. And this continued till the style of “hvidsom”—white seaming—the cut-work already alluded to, was for a time revived. Michelangelo Jesurum was re-organising the bobbin-lace industry at Pellestrina, a small fishing-town on the Lido. In 1864 the lace of Pellestrina may need been described as an inextricable labyrinth of threads with vaguely distinguishable strains and occasional holes. The pricked papers have been prepared by an old peasant lady, who made them increasingly imperfect at each repetition, losing gradually all trace of the original design. The peasants now make a rough thread lace, and some nice specimens have lately been made in white silk, which have been exhibited within the Cyprus Court of the Colonial and Indian Exhibition of 1886, and are actually in the possession of the Victoria and Albert Museum. Jesurum, by a careful copying of the old designs, obtained useful outcomes, and founded a lace-school and a flourishing business. The women who make bobbin-lace now in Venice and in the islands quantity to 3,000, however it is difficult to offer an exact estimate of their numbers, as a lot of them are bone-workers, wives and daughters of fishermen, who combine the lace-making with their household duties, with mending of nets, and with field-work. Among the hoards of this baby, born 1755, was discovered a most beautiful collection of old Tönder lace, embracing all the varieties made by her mom and herself, from the thick Flemish to the best needle-point. The lace was so imperfect, and made in such small quantities, that two women who went about selling it in Venice and the nation spherical sufficed to eliminate all that was made. About 1875 polychrome lace was introduced in Venice—bobbin-lace worked in colours with designs of flowers, fruits, leaves, arabesques, and animals, with the assorted tints and shading required. We are now arrived at the Renaissance, a interval when so shut a union existed between the nice arts and manufactures; when essentially the most trifling object of luxurious, as a substitute of being consigned to the vulgar taste of the mechanic, acquired from artists their most graceful inspirations. Lace-making was by no means the staple manufacture of the Channel Islands; stockings and clothes of knitted wool afforded a livelihood to the natives. We have early mention of those articles within the inventories of James V. And Queen Elizabeth, during which final we discover (Gt. Acc., 28 & 29) the charge of 20s.for a pair of “Caligarum nexat’ de factura Garneseie,” the higher half and “lez clocks” worked in silk. At the start of the nineteenth century, law firm türkiye when the island was inundated with French refugees, lace-making was launched with a lot success into the Poor-House of St. It formed the favourite occupation of the women of the island, some of whom retain the patterns and pillows of their mothers, just as they left them. The Calais lace is an admirable copy of the square-grounded Valenciennes, and is the staple trade of the manufacture. Of late years lots of the old raised Venetian factors have been admirably imitated in “Jersey crochet work.” The French, by adopting what is technically termed eight “motives,” produce their lace of a finer make and extra complicated pattern. While Countess Marcello was working to re-establish the making of needle-point at Burano, Cav. She also imitates the woollen laces of Le Puy, along with black and white laces innumerable. of Scotland and of Mary Stuart. If England boasts the invention of bobbin web, to France have to be assigned the application of the Jacquard system to the net-frame, and consequently the invention of machinery lace. The floor is stretched on a body; the “lace-runner” places her left hand underneath the online, and with the best works the sample. Embroidery profited law firm citizenship by investment the final impulse, and books of designs had been composed for that species which, under the overall name of cut-lawyer work permit, formed the nice employment for the women of the day. It was quite totally different from the rest made in Devonshire, and resembled most of the laces made within the midlands these days. Calais additionally produces blondes, black and white, silver and gold, the white practically approaching in brilliancy and whiteness the famed productions of Caen, which, by their cheapness, they have expelled from competitors. The filling up of the interior is termed either “fining” or “open-working,” as the unique meshes of the web are brought to a smaller or bigger measurement by the needle. The pattern proposed to be “run in” is printed by the use of engraved wooden blocks on the bottom, which, if white, is of cotton; if black, of silk. The origin of “Trolly” was undoubtedly Flemish, but it is mentioned to have reached Devonshire on the time of the French Revolution, by way of the Normandy peasants, driven by need of employment from their very own country, where lace was a fantastic business during the eighteenth century. Shawls and enormous pieces in “run lace,” as it’s termed, had previously been made after this way at Nottingham and Derby. The earliest English lace was naturally the old Flemish, the sample wavy and swish, the bottom nicely executed. The origin of “trolly” is from the Flemish “Trolle Kant,” where the design was outlined with a thick thread, or, presumably, it could be derived from a corruption of the French toilé, utilized to inform apart a flat linen pattern from the ground or treille, a basic term for a internet floor. It was made from coarse British thread, and with heavier and bigger bobbins, and labored straight on round and round the pillow. It is now nearly extinct in Devonshire, remaining in the hands of the midland counties, the place it extra correctly belongs. 136, which we choose for example, is a specimen we received, with many others, of old Newport-Pagnel lace, given by Mrs. Bell could carry these laces back to the 12 months 1780, once they had been bequeathed to her father by an aged relative who had long been in the lace trade. The principal branch of the lace commerce was the making of “baby lace,” as these slim laces were known as, most specifically employed for the adorning of infants’ caps (Figs. The customized of “storing” lace was common among the country-people. The permission is softened down by the words, “And to the tip the identical may be patterns for the manufacture of those commodities here, notwithstanding the late Statute forbidding their importation.” Charles had evidently obtained his lessons in the faculty of Mazarin. The packets stay for probably the most part entire. Bell, of that city, where her family has been established from time immemorial. That Charles himself was of this opinion there may be no doubt, for in the precise same yr he grants to one John Eaton a license to import such quantities of lace “made beyond the seas, as could also be for the wear of the Queen, our expensive Mother the Queen, our pricey brother James, Duke of York,” and the rest of the royal family. From this they produced a species of coarse guipure termed “passament,” or, within the patois of the province, “peussemot.” It was invented about 1765, and for twenty years had great success, and was a lot worn by Marie Antoinette. The lace manufactures of Lorraine flourished in the seventeenth century. For some centuries the lace-workers employed solely hempen thread, spun within the environs of Épinal, and particularly at Châtel-sur-Moselle. Vosges) and the villages of its environs, extending to the department of Meurthe, was the nice centre of this trade, which fashioned the only occupation of the countrywomen. Des soldats faire le marli!” It was to this Marli, or large pieces of white thread internet, that Bayeux owed its popularity. This same Act solely occasioned the extra smuggling of lace from Flanders, for the purpose made in England had never attained the brilliant factor about Brussels, and certainly, wherever fantastic lace is mentioned at this era it is all the time of overseas fabric. Bayeux alone made albs, shawls, and different articles of huge measurement, of thread lace. No other cloth could produce them at so low a price. When the mesh floor with an edging of loops, which constituted this lace within the decadence of Louis XVI., had a sample, it was pois, rosettes, or the spots of point d’esprit. In the Tableau de Paris, 1782, we learn that Marli employed a large quantity of workpeople, “et l’on a vu des soldats valides et invalides faire le marli, le promener, l’offrir, et le vendre eux-mêmes.